As a kind of recyclable resource, waste textiles can save a lot of textile raw materials if they are used effectively, thus alleviating the problem of oil consumption and arable land shortage. At the same time, it also reduces the emission of harmful gases generated by textile waste incineration. Landfilling causes pollution of the land. Therefore, the recycling of used clothes is of great significance to the natural environment and society.
Freedom from the choice between "value" and "price"
As seen in the Shanghai waste sorting details, the old clothes are recyclable. It is worth noting that the old underwear and towels are dry garbage (other garbage); in addition, industrial textiles such as napkins and diapers are the same. Although the garbage, sanitary napkins and masks are not shown in the figure, the two types are basically cotton and non-woven materials. Since they are disposable, they have no recyclable value and are also dry garbage (other garbage). As for degradable materials, masks made from environmentally friendly fibers such as lyocell are treated like stained paper.
In addition, there are large-sized garbage with relatively large volume, such as beds, mattresses, sofas, etc. in the field of home textiles, which must be designated as recycling sites and cannot be placed in domestic garbage. That is to say, recyclable textiles are mainly concentrated in old clothes.
Cheng Hao, director of the Office of the Environmental Protection and Resource Conservation Promotion Committee of the China National Textile and Apparel Council, said that every new household in Shanghai needs to add more than 10 new clothes every year. According to the Shanghai Municipal Bureau of Statistics, the population of 2017 is 24.18 million, and China's per capita textile consumption. According to the calculation of 21 kilograms, Shanghai produces about 520,000 tons of used clothing every year. However, according to the data obtained in Shanghai, the scale of Shanghai's access to the recycling system is only about 1.2 kilograms per person per year. Among them, some old fabrics will be Transfer, donate or store at home. How is the size of such a huge amount of waste textiles handled in the past?
It is understood that at present, most of the treatment methods for waste textiles in China, except for a small part of recycling and recycling, are mainly based on incineration and landfill. At the same time, some of them can be reworked into shredded fabrics of various products by shearing, or recycled products can be produced by secondary design; about 15% recycled, that is, waste textiles are made into recycled fibers by physical or chemical methods.
Not long ago, Julia was very concerned about wearing a long skirt of H&M. This skirt with excellent tailoring, elegant patterns and silky drape was actually made from plastic bottles washed by the coast and a large amount of scrap.
Despite this, the recycling of used textiles has not been fully explored. Cheng Hao pointed out that in terms of "waste", China can basically re-use textile products and have a complete industrial chain, but in the "old" aspect, China still lacks a complete recycling system, sorting and distribution. The industrial chain is matched with it, and there is no virtuous circle.
What are the difficulties in recycling and recycling used textiles? Cheng Hao said that the recycling cost of waste textiles, including collection, transportation, disinfection, decomposition, etc., will generate a lot of costs, and the high processing cost is also the consensus of the industry. In the "value" and "price" trade-offs, many companies still consider The problem of "sunlighting" of materials is also a problem facing industrial development. In fact, in addition to the cost of processing, fiber recycling is also a difficult point for the industry to overcome. For example, some cotton fabrics can be easily reused, but polyester fabrics are blended according to their blending ratio. The field of use. So how to distinguish the blending ratio, which materials are blended, whether it can be carbonized and whether it can be pressed and used is a difficult problem to be solved.
Tang Shijun, director of the Military Equipment Research Institute of the General Logistics Department, also said that textile recycling enterprises are small individual enterprises, and they are fighting each other. There are no large-scale leading enterprises engaged in large-scale, high-value, resource-based recycling. At present, several new recycling methods, such as degassing melting and repolymerization technology for polyester garments; alcoholysis, separation and repolymerization techniques for polyester/cotton garments; solvent recovery for multicomponent blended garments and Separation technology. At present, most domestic enterprises have not yet reached the advanced level of recycling and recycling. As an emerging industry, the waste textile industry can be expected in the future, but it has a long way to go.
On the eve of recycling, those who are not ready yet
In recent years, although the state attaches importance to resource conservation and the development of circular economy, China has not formed scale and industrialization at the initial stage, and it lacks relevant policy support.
In the recycling of waste textiles, the United Kingdom, the United States, Germany, Japan and other countries have begun in the early 20th century, and through relevant laws and policies to support and encourage the recycling of waste textiles.
At present, because there are still many security risks, China does not allow the trading of waste textiles, and there are few textile recycling enterprises led by the government. As we all know, in the recycling of textiles, standards and related laws and regulations are needed to constrain and guide. In view of the fact that the recycling of used textiles is still in a gray area, some people in the industry also call on the state to give strong support to the policy, and at the same time, set standards for the recycling of used textiles as soon as possible.
According to Cheng Wei, before, the recycling of used textiles was based on the relevant standards such as “Classification and Code of Waste Plastics” and “Technical Specifications for Waste Plastics Recycling”. However, since textiles are mostly blended, there is still a lack of applicability.
In view of the current garbage classification in Shanghai, waste textiles will be able to be classified and distributed more intensively, which will open a new era of government-led, waste textile transactions. On the eve of the industrialization and scale of waste textiles, is the government ready?
In the field of terminal consumption, Cheng Hao proposes to use the Internet + to allow consumers to consume, while the merchants can motivate consumers to take out textiles that they no longer need by means of “discount coupons”. This aspect can make the company well practiced. Corporate social responsibility can also involve more people.
Fashion goes very fast, "reuse" but slow down
In the next stage, China Textile & Economics Co., Ltd. will also pilot more ideas on recycling of used textiles in Shanghai. At the same time, it will start from the aspects of school uniforms and brand green design, advocate green lifestyle and green consumption concept, and promote urban waste. The resource utilization of textiles promotes the development of a green circular economy in the textile industry.
In 2018, the consumption of textile raw materials in China reached 58.5 million tons, accounting for more than 55% of the world. China's textile raw materials import volume reached more than 65%, while the amount of waste textiles reached 26 million tons / year. With the reduction of oil, the expansion of population, and the contradiction of cotton grain competition, the major challenge facing China's textile industry is the shortage of raw materials.
In the case of cotton, for example, a T-shirt uses an average of about 60 grams of cotton, which is used for cotton cultivation and uses pesticides. If the old clothes are recycled or recycled, it will help reduce the consumption of cotton and alleviate the shortage of domestic raw materials.
As the pace of fashion is getting faster and faster, can we slowly review our consumption and advocate a simple, moderate, green and low-carbon lifestyle? As a consumer, rational consumption and environmental protection of waste textiles are very important.
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